01 S E A M
The join line formed when two pieces of cloth are sewn together. Seams may be formed in different ways to produce different visual effects that have different levels of prominence. The ‘seam allowance’ is the area between the edge and the stitching line on the pieces of material being stitched together, which ranges from 1/4 inch for curved areas to several inches for places requiring extra fabric for final fitting to the wearer.
Running seam
Two pieces of fabric are joined together using a flat bed machine. These are commonly found inside a denim jacket. Pictured is a running seam with overlocked edging.
French seam
The first stitch is applied to the right side of the fabric with the second on the wrong side to trap it. This method originated in Paris, France and is used on fine or transparent materials. Pictured is a French seam and pin hem.
Welt seam
An extremely strong bond between two pieces of fabric that are effectively interlocked together, giving a distinctive pattern. One fabric has two rows of stitching and the other only one, as commonly used with denim. Pictured is a welt seam in conjunction with top stitching.
02 S E A S O N
A time period that corresponds to the seasons of the year for which designers produce specific garment collections. French houses tend to produce and launch a different collections twice a year. The ideas and styles they present can loosely be termed ‘this season’s fashion’. The cycle takes about a year with the process to create a spring/summer collection starting in January and ending the following January with delivery into store. The autumn/winter collections start with shows in August and fulfillment into stores the following July.
03 S E L V A G E
The uncut edge of a woven fabric that is on the right- and left-hand edge during manufacture. Selvage or selvedge will not fray as the yarn returns on itself and thus appears finished. Selvage tends to be cut away or hidden by a hem as it may carry a different pattern to the rest of the fabric, have a different weave pattern, or lack pile.
