Image Via: Vogue
After an explosive 17th anniversary for Shanghai Fashion Week, the subtle elephant in the room when it comes to the relationship between Chinese consumers and global brands has finally been exposed. It appears there is a huge difference in aesthetics between those international fashion brands attempting to target the Chinese market and local designers and it’s unmistakable. It seems that if global brands really want to meet the demands of the Chinese market, they’re going to have to plan their ranges better as well as re-think their attitude and here’s why.
Young Chinese designers are working together in a way that hasn’t been seen before in other fashion hubs or in China from previous generations, taking advantage of their unlimited knowledge of their own market. Exploring and understanding local style, taste and traditions, this new age of Chinese designers are simply able to communicate this way of thinking, through their designs in a subtle and sophisticated way that global brands can’t. Without the cultural context that most international brands don’t have, they’re finding it difficult to relate to the Chinese consumer which is of course, a major plus for up and coming Chinese designers who now have the edge on their own local market.
We only have to look to Chinese brand Staffonly to understand this shift and difference when it comes to fashion appealing to the Chinese market. Recently they presented a phenomenal concept show which was both innovative and satirical at the Tube Showroom. The idea was inspired by the ever growing trend for shopping online and presented the models continuously glued to their smart phones as they walked the runway, the clothes themselves inspired by online deliveries. The clothes were cool and inspiring but they also had meaning and that is to reflect the world in which the young Chinese generation now lives in. They were born into a world that didn’t exist without the internet, without the ability to purchase anything at the tip of their fingers and not only were they not born into a world without internet technology but they have no concept of what life was like before it. Because of this, young Chinese designers are able to speak to their market on a different level both from an old world and current world perspective.
Image Via: Staffonly Instagram
Of course, major brands are starting to see their disadvantage at this point and even some American-Chinese designers are choosing to favor Shanghai Fashion Week over New York Fashion Week for showing their latest collections. Many global brands are also making an effort to gain deeper knowledge of the fashion market in China but all too often they are taking the easy route and employing Chinese students to do the leg work for them. Andrew Wu, the LMVH group president for greater China has already forewarned the global brands taking this approach, advising them not to do this as a couple of Chinese students simply can not represent the entirety of China. Instead, Reebok has taken a more in depth approach to their appeal to the Chinese market, opening a creative center in Shanghai, dedicated to research and product development specifically for China. Reebok also implemented their new See Now Buy Now concept for the first time at Shanghai Fashion Week with hopes to use it again in the future for multiple fashion weeks. The concept means that every piece that walks the runway will be immediately available to purchase after the show- a contrary move compared to other fashion week shows where garments and accessories aren’t available to purchase for at least six months. This idea is incredibly attractive to the Chinese market, they don’t have the time and don’t want a six month waiting period. It makes sense in many ways, fashion trends are no longer a twice yearly occurrence no matter how hard the industry wants us to believe this. Some trends stay around for only a couple of weeks and many consumers are fine with making a trending purchase they know they’ll only enjoy for a short period of time. In theory, the products are trending now and who knows when they’ll fall out of fashion, China doesn’t have time to mess around. It is now that the industry is sitting up and listening to their Asian fashion partner and realizing that the fashion industry needs Shanghai and not the other way around.
Image Via: Hypebae
Unlike the majority of western designers, Eastern designers are so often educated abroad giving them the best of both worlds and an educational background (cultural, language and otherwise) in both too. Often Chinese designers are coming back to their homeland to set up their own design labels, allowing their multi cultural experiences to seep into their designs while still being true to their roots. In comparison, most American designers stay in America for their training and education, speak only English and know only a western way of thinking and creating. Without this broader spectrum of knowledge and a deeper insight into Eastern culture, it’s impossible for them to compete against young Chinese designers.
